No help with the wetting aspect - but my recommendation would be to mold it first (and let it dry) then mount it, lest you end up damaging the already built part should the warp you're trying to encourage not take as well as you'd like.

Guy I knew when I worked at Mystic Seaport in the model shop would build what he called "guys"--wood mold of the contour you were going for, in effect a fake hull for the wet wood strips you were molding to contour to without running into the warping problem beth describes. part of the secret is to work evenly on both sides and from the same direction. if memory serves, too, you are supposed to start from the bottom, but i could be wrong on that as it was 20 years ago.

As for the water temp, the best shot would be to experiment with different temps on the warmer side.

That, and keep your blades really freaking sharpened, and the work area well ventilated. He would die his glue black, so if it did bleed, it could be chalked up as tar pitch, but that was a tad obsessive. but, then again, the whole art is a tad obsessive, in which lies its exquisite beauty.

i for one speak on behalf of the larger llama readership to hear how your progress with this goes:

http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=1138136

You might try steaming the pieces. That way they won't be saturated with water. Spent some time around a coopers shop. They use steam to form the staves. If you can bend a white oak stave with steam you can bend about any kind of wood. If your tacking or screwing the pieces in place, you could probably put them on right away as the wood won't be that wet. If using glue it would probably be best to clamp in place till the wood takes form as it cools and drys and then glue.

As a longtime ship modeler I would say:

Do NOT soak your planks unless you intend to mold them and let them dry thoroughly. Attaching wet planks to the frame will lead to possible frame warping. Then your Harvey will have a corkscrew aspect to it that is not so attractive.

Steaming is fine, but the same applies.

Model Expo sells a number of tools for plank bending. I would heartily reccomend the following. They will keep your heartbreaks to a minimum.

By far, the best tool I've used is the strangely, but aptly, named Plank Planker. Basically, it scores the inside of your plank, bending it into shape according to the area of he ship you're working on. Especially good for shaping those rather difficult areas at the stern. The force and angle of the cut will determine the amount of bend resulting. Care and patience is required. Practice on scraps.

The other thing those poorly translated instructions don't reveal is the art of tapering a plank. In addition to tapering and notching (primarily at the bow and stern), planks should be beveled to facilitate a smooth fit along side another plank. Remember, half the fun of this is replicating naval construction techniques in miniature. For tapering, I recommend the Timber Tapering Tool. Simple and useful. Along with this, you might want to consider a Razor Plane.

I think these tools are a good investment towards a good finished model. If you decide that you're going to get hooked to this hobby, I highly recommend Model Shipways kits. Very complete and detailed instructions. In english. There are some superb kits.

Drop me a line if you've got any more questions. Happy to answer if I can.

Hysterical. There was once a young man who promised if I married him to buy me the boat of my dreams - a Friendship sloop. Mr. P, not to be outdone by any failed suitor, presesnted me with a Friendship sloop on our 2nd Christmas.

It was in a box. He bought me a model....and far too complicated for me to put together.

It's still in that box 15 years later. I recently gave it to Little Bertie hoping he'll someday possess enough brainpower to put it together for me.

But in the meantime, for this Christmas I've asked Little Bertie for a woodduck duck decoy with a RC boat engine attached underneath it so he and I can chase all the Canada geese around the lake...

Hysterical. There was once a young man who promised if I married him to buy me the boat of my dreams - a Friendship sloop. Mr. P, not to be outdone by any failed suitor, presesnted me with a Friendship sloop on our 2nd Christmas.

It was in a box. He bought me a model....and far too complicated for me to put together.

It's still in that box 15 years later. I recently gave it to Little Bertie hoping he'll someday posess enough brainpower to put it together for me.

But in the meantime, for this Christmas I've asked Little Bertie for a woodduck duck decoy with a RC boat engine attached underneath it so he and I can chase all the Canada geese around the lake...

I had a friend on board ship (JFK) that built that same model during our Med deployment in '86. He soaked them in warm water until very flexible, took them out a few at a time to let the surface air dry and then superglued the planks in place. The frame was rigid enough that there was no indication of any warping. It probably helped that he worked port then starboard from the keel up rather than all of one side then the other. Me, I started easy with that company's Gokstad long boat.....still have it actually.

Soak in room temp or warmer water with up to 10% ammonia cleaner added. Work alternate sides with planks blotted dry, super-glued (cyanoacrylate and baking soda) while temporarily rubber-banded in place followed by air-drying. Works on aircraft nacelles and fuselages as well as hulls. Have fun....

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